DPR Forum

Welcome to the Friendly Aisles!
DPRF is a spin-off of dpreview. We are a photography forum with people from all over the world freely sharing their knowledge and love of photography. Everybody is welcome, from beginners to the experienced professional. From smartphone to Medium Format.

DPRF is a community for everybody, every brand and every sensor format. Digital and film.
Enjoy this modern, easy to use software. Look also at our Reviews & Gallery!

BLUISH HUE IN OUTDOOR PHOTOS

Gordon, as I mentioned, Auto WB works for most regular shots, but is not perfect all the time. That is why Canon (and every digital camera) have other choices.

RAW is capture format that allows the most corrections after the fact.

To some degree, over and under exposures, different contrast, different color temp ( i.e., WB), color saturation and others can be altered from what was set on the camera when you shot a photo.
For ex&le, when you overexpose a J-peg, it is difficult to fix compared to a RAW file. You can also store RAW files on a CD-ROM like it was an original (i.e., a digital negative).

The disadvantage is that a RAW file is bigger than a compressed J-Peg, and takes up more room on a CF card. Plus you have to use the Canon RAW developer (File Viewer Ulitity) to process the images before you can take them into PhotoShop. The File Viewer Utility is where alll the alterations to a RAW file can be done.

So, if you want ultimate quality, with the most flexability to alter it later, then RAW is the way to go.
 
Are there any other software to edit RAW images? I remeber reading somewhere that there was a better editor than the Canon utility.
 
>Omar, There are three software choices of which I know. All are reviewed >on the Luminious Landscape site. Here is a shortcut to my favorite these >days, Capture One LE. >http://luminous-landscape.com/reviews/software/c1-le.shtml. The full >product is expensive but this one work well for my D60 conversions. Also >check >http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/1ds/capture-one.shtml. I >also have and use the BreezeBrowser. See >http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/software/yarcplus-vs-breezebrowser.shtml. >I always capture shots in RAW. I have take to leaving my D60 to use Auto >white balance just because if I set it to cloudy I will forget to set it >back to daylight. As long as I am recording in RAW, it makes little >difference since I can control the white balance when I convert to a tif >file. I like Capture One because I can continue working while it does a >conversion and because I get the sharpest conversions with its focus tool. >Hope this helps. Fred
 
One more thing about using a tool like Capture One LE for RAW conversions. You can see the effect of the different White balance settings by changing the WB with the preview on. Then you can see how an incorrect WB setting turns your image blue. Fred
 
I also noticed the blue tint first few times I used the G3 outdoors, before I dumped AUTO. My pet theory is it's down to the combination of flash and daylight confusing the white blance. Unless you 'warm up' the internal flash with some kind of red filter, I reckon you are always going to be stuck with some kind of compromise white balance in this situation where there are two different type light sources. Warming up the whole picure might disguise it, which might be what film does. As has been advised already, I'm tending not to use AUTO, but other modes where I can switch things like the internal flash off. If I really need fill in, it's OK to use when the ambient isn't strong enough to confuse the WB. Anyone think I'm wrong on this one?
 
Back
Top