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Contax RX problem


Well-Known Member
I am having a problem with my RX, the mirror remains locked in the up position after taking a shot. Removing the lense causes the mirror to reset correctly, and sometimes the mirror will reset itself a number of seconds (5 or so) after the exposure. The battery check seems ok any thoughts anyone. I have checked that the lense is ok, on a 167MT so it appears to be the camera body, the problem appears with several dififerent lenses.

Could the foam rubber damper be getting sticky as it perishes? All of the foam rubber on my elderly 137 had rotted, leaving a sticky mess. Malcolm Taylor replaced it for me and the camera is now working again (when I get round to recovering the leatherette finish with the new Camera Leather kit, that is!).

RX Problem

That is a possibility I will check, as I have just had the foam replaced on my 137's, my 167 is ok, so I assumed that the RX would be aswell, but that may not be the case.

RX Problem

I'm having the same problem with several of my CONTAX cameras, RX, 137MA, 139. In my cameras it is definitely not the foam rubber pad retaining the mirror because it has deteriorated and become sticky. Instead the mirror seems to have crept forward on its support until it now contacts the lens. While the force of the camera motor is sufficient to overcome the friction between mirror and lens when the camera is released, the force of the pushdowm spring combined with the weight force of the mirror is not sufficient, so the mirror remains in the up position. My suspicion of mirror creepage is sustained by the observation, that the sticking of the mirror, when it is first noticed, can be undone by a gentle push against the bottom of the camera, while after some time the mirror needs removing the lens. Has anybody an idea how the mirror can be moved to its original position on its support?

I am having quite the same problem but my mirror does not flip up completely because it has slid down too much so it touches the lenses back every time I take a shot. Therefore the exposure is rubbish as well.

I have not repaired the camera yet but I guess it should be easy to remove the mirror and to glue it back to its original position. Although, I did not want to try this by my self yet... :)

If anyone knows someone doing the repair, please provide a contact.

Does anybody fix this problem (move a mirror) by hand or we must find a servicemen?
daa, I have seen references to this problem on another photo site, and it is referred to as Contax "mirror slip". Some suggest that it can be a common problem with Contax gear.
I have the 167 and the AX. Both were bought used and mint-. I have not had any problem as yet with those two. I was on the lookout for another Contax, either the RX, or the ST, but I am now having second thoughts. A lot of people on various sites rate Contax higher than Leica for reliability.
As regards self repair a posting elsewhere advised against it, as the mirror is very delicate, and should not even be touched with a dust removal brush. From previous visits here, it looks like ronpeters (a member) is well versed in Contax matters. Try contacting him for advice. If you get it professionally repaired post the cost of the repair for others' benefit.
Contax mirror slip

Ha[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]llo geordiefred,

thank you for your info. I have several Contax bodies, all loaded with different films, 137,139, RTS II, RTS III, 167, 159, RX, AX. Most of them show this mirror slip. Having experienced some other problems with some of these bodies, I can't understand how the reliability of Contax can be rated higher than the reliability of Leica. I have asked Kyocera to repair the slipped mirrors free of charge, as this is obviously an inherent default, caused by the choice of an unsuited adhesive for the mirror on its support, and a lacking mechanical stop preventing slipping. The answer was, that I can have it repaired, but at the usual charge. If it was only one body, I would have accepted this, but not for so many of them. So I helped myself in the following way: I put an aluminium disk of 41 mm diameter and 8mm thickness, backed by a 3 to 4 mm thick disk of elastic foam as used for packaging purposes into the bayonet cover, swept the mirror up by pressing exposure time T or B, and put the cover with the disks carefully in place. The face of the alu-disc contakting the front edge of the mirror should be very smooth. I had the disc made on a lathe. The idea is: when the tiny weight force of the mirror makes the mirror creep forward slowly over a long time, a larger force in the opposite direction should make it creep back faster. With the body laid on its back, and the mirror in the up position, the mirror is forced back by its own weight, by the weight of the alu-disc, and by the elastic force of the compressed foam-disc between alu-disc and bayonet-cover. I left the body undisturbed for several weeks, and when I looked, the mirror indeed had crept back, not quite to its original position, but far enough to avoid touching the lens in its movement. I applied a thin line of two-component epoxid-resin adhesive to the front of the mirror and its support to prevent it from creeping again. So far it has helped. One final remark: Anybody applying this procedure is doing so at his own risk!
Good luck