Negative scanner

[wilsonlaidlaw1]

The colour problem with scanning negative film, is why I stick to Reversal and live with its downside of narrow exposure latitudes. For this reason, I mainly use my Leica M7 for colour, as it meters very accurately, albeit you have to be careful with super wide lenses, 18mm Super Elmar etc, not to pick up too much sky exposure. I have tried various folks' recipes on Photoshop (CC 2018) and Capture One (V 10 Pro) and cannot get anything like as dense and accurate colour as I get from reversal. I have also tried feeding my raw images from the camera through Vuescan with mixed results. The only thing I have yet to try is Colorperfect plug-in which gets good write ups and does offer a free trial version. My current favourite film is Agfa Precisa CT100, which gives an almost Kodachrome like colour balance and intensity and scans beautifully in the BEOON to a Leica SL Type 601. The film stock is apparently made for Agfa by Fuji and uses a similar super fine emulsion to Provia 100F but on a wholly different substrate. Obviously I am looking forward to the re-release of Ektachrome as well.

Wilson

 

[Fishrman]

A year or more ago, I was wanting the same thing. I also wanted to scan photos. After some research, I ended up with the Epson Perfection V600 Photo. It has done what I have asked it to.

 

[n057]

any thoughts on a decent negative scanner please?
I have like others I’m sure a significant number of negatives that I would like to scan and then electronically store. Storage can either be via Windows or Apple
Many thanks

I have a Nikon Coolscan ED5000 for 35 mm, and an old Epson Perfection 1240 U for larger negatives. I drive both with Vuescan software, which makes any scanner come to life.
If you want to scan anything with mostly any scanner, I suggest you try Vuescan. It often works better than the software that comes with the scanner, takes care of the orange mask and everything.
JC

 

[Mujana1]

Macro lens, copy stand, light box — problem solved!

In particular, recent Olympus OM-D bodies use their sensor-shift mastery to merge eight stability-assisted exposures into one image with four times the pixels. I think Panasonic now has something similar; don't know about other camera manufacturers.

This means I can "scan" my 4"x5" trannies into 80 megapixel images — not the 250 megapixels I was getting out my Optronics ColorGetter Falcon when I was doing a lot of drum scanning, but a lot faster, and for most things, "good enough."

BTW: I'm getting ready to sell a Nikon Coolscan 4000. PM me if interested.

That’s exactly how I do it (but not with Olympus). also good for positives/slides and printed images.

 

[JosephS]

I've done color negative macro photos, inverted them in Photoshop and then adjusted exposure and color in Lightroom Classic. Here is one result. The negative was from probably 1995. I used a light pad (used for sketching, but works for photography). I used a 42.5mm lens with a 16mm macro ring behind it. Oh, I should say shot with a G9 II micro four thirds camera.

 

[DrLex]

I've done color negative macro photos, inverted them in Photoshop and then adjusted exposure and color in Lightroom Classic. Here is one result. The negative was from probably 1995. I used a light pad (used for sketching, but works for photography). I used a 42.5mm lens with a 16mm macro ring behind it. Oh, I should say shot with a G9 II micro four thirds camera.

Good result, but I notice some horizontal banding, was this present in the negative? If not, it could be due to the light pad having a switching power supply which causes very fast fluctuations in the light intensity. If that's the case, you should be able to get rid of the effect by using a longer exposure.

 

[JosephS]

No, the light pad has rows of LEDs. On bright areas you can't see it, but on dark areas it sometimes appears.