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The correct film



What is the best film to max the Leica Len. I've been a Kodak user but I have been a little disappointed lately. I'm finding that the NPH and NHG fuji really snap with the Leica. I just purchased some over the counter Reala and will give that a try this weekend. Also for B&W I've always used TMAX or Tri-X but want to get a really smooth tone...any input on Delta or Ilford? ... Any experience would be appreciated...
I really like Ilford Delta 100 Pro , even if the sensibility isn't that high with 100 ISO .
I wanted to try Kodak's chromogenic T 400 CN , heard that it has a great tone .
Only 20% is in the film.
About 30% is in the development...
About 20 % in visualization and...
30% measuring the light the right way...
Wish you all the best...

Agfa APX 100 is worth a try. With Leica glass it really produces prints with a snap. It is a little grainy compared with other films but produces but quite clean and crisp prints with a nice gradation of tones. In my experience the best results are acheived when developed in Rodinal 1+25. Don't use D76/ID11. I've also acheived very fine results with Agfa Pan 25 and the Leicas, if you don't mind the slow speed that is.

The other film I use a lot is Ilford FP4 plus rated at 100. Developed in ID11/D76 1+1 it gives a nice tonal gradation with less grain than APX. But doesn't give the clean snap of the APX.

I used to use Ilford HP5 rated at 400 and developed in ID11 diluted to 1+3. This cut the appearance of grain and increased acutance but lost a little in fine grad. of tones.

I don't use Delta or TMax films much because I mostly print on traditional graded papers and the H&D curves of older tech. films seems to suit them better. However, Delta 100 I've found gives very smooth results. Nice clean almost grainless prints. It is not very tolerant to even small variations in dev. temp. and it can be a little difficult to get consistant results at least during summer here in the sub tropics.

Fugi Iso Pan 100 is also worth a try out. It can be hard to find here but it is a very fine film.

Very interested I what people have to say about the match of colour neg films and Leica lenses.


"Fugi iso pan 100" should read Fuji SS Pan 100. Posted early morning after a session in the darkroom.

It has a fine grain and good tonal range that's a little differnt in feel to the Kodak and Ilford equivalents.

> I have shot a lot of Delta 100 (processed in ID11 usually) and I find it to be an excellent all-around B&W film. I can shoot it at 100 or 80, depending on how much extra 'oomph' I want. Lately, however, due to lack of time to process my own film, I have been shooting a lot of Ilford XP2 Super - chromogenic C41 stuff - for B&W. I love it! But I shoot it at 250 instead of 400, process normally of course (at a minilab) and it holds the shadows way better. At 400 it is not so great for me.

For color, I shoot Reala for 100 print film, I love Reala! and NPH for 400. Also, I have gotten to like Agfa Vista 400 a lot - a little punchier than NPH but not as sharp, or maybe it is but I cannot tell. Anyway, Reala is my top film for the M because of the slower shutter and my penchant for shooting at f2 or larger here in sunny Southern California :)

Try the XP2 Super at ISO 250 - you will love it!

Cheers, - marc
> [How about Ilford Pan F? A great classic B+W film. Develop in Perceptol @ 32ISO for ultra fine grain, ID11/D76/Rodinal @ 50ISO, or Microphen @ 80ISO. For colour prints I am trying Reala, agre NPH 400 is good, for slides I like Agfa Precisa CT100.]

Have you tried the new Kodak High Definition films? They come in 200 and 400 ASA and are processed in C-41 chemistry (since it is a color film.) IMHO, it's a keeper! You then have the option of either color or B&W. It scans very well into B&W.

As for "real" B&W films... I like FP4, XP2, and Tri-X.

I would wholly agree with both Kodak High Definition and XP-2 Super. The Kodak does seem quite sensitive to less than perfect processing, as I have had a couple of rolls come back with rather muddy colours, when not using my two usual labs. BTW there is now a 100ASA version of this film available - that must be really sharp but have not tried it yet. If you are having XP-2 processed and printed at your local fast photo shop, you will have to talk to the manager nicely and ask for the printer colour profile to be tweaked a bit or else you tend to end up with a slight magenta or violet cast on whites. If you take the XP-2 at 800 ASA with an oldish lens (my 1950's Summitar) it gives a lovely vintage feel to the photo. Wilson