G
Guest
If you shoot B+W and use filters, or colour for that matter, with pols and stronger UV correction filters the extra stop of the lux can be handy.
craig
craig
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G
Guest
While it may be true that the quality of modern fast films have lessened the need for fast lenses for available light shooting, the film can't replace the look of the summilux shot wide open. By the same token the summilux can't acheive the shallow depth of field that a 50m f1 noctilux can. True you may not want every shot to have that look, but without the max. aperture, it's not an option. I have the 35mm summ. asph. and while the more compact size and lighter weight of the summicron is tempting, I would never give up my 1.4.
G
Guest
Justin and Craig,
Thanks for the advice, I think you have convinced me to go with the Summicron. I really do like it's smaller size, doesn't attract as much attention. I should have mentioned I shoot mostly 400 speed black and white, rarely with filters. I can always carry other film that can be pushed to 800 or more. or the Fuji color negative 800. That's certainly a lot cheaper way to go than paying for an extra stop that will probably be rarely used. By the way, I noticed that both of you are from Australia, that's so cool getting advice from the other side of the planet. I was in Sydney in 2000 on a job and absolutely loved it there. I still wear my Blunnies almost every day. Cheers.
Mark
Thanks for the advice, I think you have convinced me to go with the Summicron. I really do like it's smaller size, doesn't attract as much attention. I should have mentioned I shoot mostly 400 speed black and white, rarely with filters. I can always carry other film that can be pushed to 800 or more. or the Fuji color negative 800. That's certainly a lot cheaper way to go than paying for an extra stop that will probably be rarely used. By the way, I noticed that both of you are from Australia, that's so cool getting advice from the other side of the planet. I was in Sydney in 2000 on a job and absolutely loved it there. I still wear my Blunnies almost every day. Cheers.
Mark
G
Guest
Hi Mark,
Glad you liked Australia. Where are you? I suspect that we Australians are the only Leica enthusiasts awake right now.
Noticing you are using NPH I have found enlargements are better if you open up half a stop. I do use it with success at 800 only when necessary.
Cheers,
Justin
Glad you liked Australia. Where are you? I suspect that we Australians are the only Leica enthusiasts awake right now.
Noticing you are using NPH I have found enlargements are better if you open up half a stop. I do use it with success at 800 only when necessary.
Cheers,
Justin
G
Guest
Justin,
I'm in the U.S., Minneapolis, Minnesota. I've also found that many of the color negative films are better off shot at a lower film speed, even by as much as a stop. I use Ilford XP2 a lot and it gets finer grain if you over expose it. It also holds amazing detail in the highlights. Some people say it doen't scan very well but I've never had a problem.
I was in Memphis, Tennessee last August to shoot all the goings-on surrounding the 25th anniversary of the death of Elvis and met a guy from Wellington, NZ. He didn't have wheels and I did so we ended up hitting a lot of the events together. Great guy. There were people from all over the world there, it was a blast. I'm probably shutting down for the night but thanks again for your help.
Mark
I'm in the U.S., Minneapolis, Minnesota. I've also found that many of the color negative films are better off shot at a lower film speed, even by as much as a stop. I use Ilford XP2 a lot and it gets finer grain if you over expose it. It also holds amazing detail in the highlights. Some people say it doen't scan very well but I've never had a problem.
I was in Memphis, Tennessee last August to shoot all the goings-on surrounding the 25th anniversary of the death of Elvis and met a guy from Wellington, NZ. He didn't have wheels and I did so we ended up hitting a lot of the events together. Great guy. There were people from all over the world there, it was a blast. I'm probably shutting down for the night but thanks again for your help.
Mark
G
Guest
Mark
Something that I think is sometimes overlooked with the Ms is the maximum SS of 1/1000s. The lux is of cause great for low light stuff, but on bright days you can't open up when you want to cut down depth of field, paticularly If you are shooting 400. So stick with a cron. or spend even more $ on a set neutal density filters.
craig
Something that I think is sometimes overlooked with the Ms is the maximum SS of 1/1000s. The lux is of cause great for low light stuff, but on bright days you can't open up when you want to cut down depth of field, paticularly If you are shooting 400. So stick with a cron. or spend even more $ on a set neutal density filters.
craig
G
Guest
If I could throw in my opinion, I have a 50 summi which I love, if I could I would have a contemporary summilux; I find myself shooting in the dark where I use 1/15th and usually end up with something good. I had a 1.4 on my canon slr which was useful to have the extra stop, not so much for less depth of field, but for an extra shutter speed.
I usually shoot 400 but recently someone gave me a lot of Plus-X which I've been using up. I actually enjoyed using it more in daylight because I could get more blurred motion rather than shooting 250 or 500 at f16. I don't like skipping around with different films because it compicates quickly developing a batch of film, but I would be tempted to get a 2-stop neutral density filter as Mark suggests. I should say that I usually use Fuji1600 Neopan if I am going to shoot enough of a low light situation to make it worth it. I carry my camera always, so the 400 is necesarry where the Plus-X doesn't cut it.
Just some thoughts
I usually shoot 400 but recently someone gave me a lot of Plus-X which I've been using up. I actually enjoyed using it more in daylight because I could get more blurred motion rather than shooting 250 or 500 at f16. I don't like skipping around with different films because it compicates quickly developing a batch of film, but I would be tempted to get a 2-stop neutral density filter as Mark suggests. I should say that I usually use Fuji1600 Neopan if I am going to shoot enough of a low light situation to make it worth it. I carry my camera always, so the 400 is necesarry where the Plus-X doesn't cut it.
Just some thoughts
G
Guest
> You also could buy a Hexar RF with the 1/4000 second shutter speed, current price is about $600. Gerry
G
Guest
Thanks everyone, I ended up getting the 35 Summicron ASPH. There were a lot of great suggestions for going either way. I think it just came down to price and size. I did look at a new black paint version also. Very beautiful and a little more heft but $150 more. I think this will end up being my favorite lens.
Mark
Mark
G
Guest
> I did look at a new black paint version also. > Very beautiful and a little more heft but $150 more. I think this will > end up being my favorite lens.
A black paint Summicron ASPH is available now? Wow, that must be pretty. I guess it is to go with the MP?
I am sure you will be very happy with the new Summicron. I am hoping to purchase one very soon as well, and trade in my 35 'lux. I never seem to need the extra stop with the 35mm, though in the 50mm focal length the 'lux is the BOMB!
Cheers! - marc
A black paint Summicron ASPH is available now? Wow, that must be pretty. I guess it is to go with the MP?
I am sure you will be very happy with the new Summicron. I am hoping to purchase one very soon as well, and trade in my 35 'lux. I never seem to need the extra stop with the 35mm, though in the 50mm focal length the 'lux is the BOMB!
Cheers! - marc