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Guest
>Try the Contax/Yashica Service in New Jersey. They can be reached at >1-732-560-0060 x4361.
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G
Guest
Hi lyn,
here in singapore there are camera shops that can help u with ur problem..try 'camera workshop' at 1st level of peninsula hotel(look for don, tel.6336-1956, just a tip-b patient w this no.
), or at 'alex photo' 2nd level peninsula plaza..they also have contax bargain deals there..goood folks..check it out.
here in singapore there are camera shops that can help u with ur problem..try 'camera workshop' at 1st level of peninsula hotel(look for don, tel.6336-1956, just a tip-b patient w this no.
), or at 'alex photo' 2nd level peninsula plaza..they also have contax bargain deals there..goood folks..check it out.
G
Guest
Brian
>Another problem I have encountered with my 139 is the deterioration of the black foam plastic light seal inside the back cover. Has anyone had any experience with this repair?<
I have had good success replacing the light seals on my RTS, using strips of black mouse mat cut 2mm wide. If you get the width right, and feed the strips into the grooves by gently stretching them, the foam will 'spring back' in the groove and no adhesive will be required. Remove the old foam using cocktail sticks (or similar) and clean the residue by dragging pieces of cotton wool or the like, moistened in lighter fuel (take care), through the light seal grooves. There may be a small pin in the upper groove which signals to the camera that the door has been closed - take care not to impede its action by covering it with foam, you may need to do a little nip-and-tuck there. It's time consuming, but very easy.
Alex
>Another problem I have encountered with my 139 is the deterioration of the black foam plastic light seal inside the back cover. Has anyone had any experience with this repair?<
I have had good success replacing the light seals on my RTS, using strips of black mouse mat cut 2mm wide. If you get the width right, and feed the strips into the grooves by gently stretching them, the foam will 'spring back' in the groove and no adhesive will be required. Remove the old foam using cocktail sticks (or similar) and clean the residue by dragging pieces of cotton wool or the like, moistened in lighter fuel (take care), through the light seal grooves. There may be a small pin in the upper groove which signals to the camera that the door has been closed - take care not to impede its action by covering it with foam, you may need to do a little nip-and-tuck there. It's time consuming, but very easy.
Alex
G
Guest
Hi,
Ive just got my second hand 139Q and need help
on what sort of flash that supports this camera so that I can use the TTL function.
Anyone using a 139 TTL with other make of flash other than Contax eg Metz?
Ive just got my second hand 139Q and need help
on what sort of flash that supports this camera so that I can use the TTL function.
Anyone using a 139 TTL with other make of flash other than Contax eg Metz?
G
Guest
Metz with sca-380 or sca-382 adapter is fine
G
Guest
There is also a TTL-Adapter for SUNPAK flashes.
G
Guest
I have a new old stock Dedicated module from Sunpak that gives TTL with the 137MD and 139 Q cameras.
This module fits the Sunpak 555, 622, Auto30DX Auto24DX flash guns.
The new version of the YC-1D is ment to work with later Yas/COntax and Contax 645 bodies.
I must have the early one that doesnt work for my Aria in dedicated mode.
They only cost about US$40
This module fits the Sunpak 555, 622, Auto30DX Auto24DX flash guns.
The new version of the YC-1D is ment to work with later Yas/COntax and Contax 645 bodies.
I must have the early one that doesnt work for my Aria in dedicated mode.
They only cost about US$40
G
Guest
> I have a new old stock Dedicated module from Sunpak that gives TTL> with the 137MD and 139 Q cameras.> This module fits the Sunpak 555, 622, Auto30DX Auto24DX flash guns.
Yes this is the module I have - the GS4500 flash [or555 in some countries] works fine on my 139 , 167 and RTS3 . Highly recommended and good value too . Steve
Yes this is the module I have - the GS4500 flash [or555 in some countries] works fine on my 139 , 167 and RTS3 . Highly recommended and good value too . Steve
G
Guest
> I used to have 139q and used a TLA30, also second hand that gives TTL. however, it was too noisy and a battery hog so I sitched it in favour of metx 54 mz3, which is far better (and cheaper new than the comparable contax model). THis gives TTL for most contaxes with the contax/yashica adapter that Metx make, but in the adapter manual it says TTL metering is NOT supported for the 139Q. So for 139q it looks like contax or sunpak are the options for flash ttl metering. >
G
Guest
THis gives TTL for most contaxes with the> contax/yashica adapter that Metx make, but in the adapter manual it> says TTL metering is NOT supported for the 139Q. So for 139q it looks > like contax or sunpak are the options for flash ttl metering. >
I'm not an expert on Metz , but I understand that their are two adaptors for Contax [ I presume one for 3 pin and one for newer 5 pin flash?] - are you maybe using the wrong one?? I have noticed no problems with contax or Sunpak flash guns and 139 , 167 or RTS3 bodies - admittedly all 3 pin flash connectors....... Steve
I'm not an expert on Metz , but I understand that their are two adaptors for Contax [ I presume one for 3 pin and one for newer 5 pin flash?] - are you maybe using the wrong one?? I have noticed no problems with contax or Sunpak flash guns and 139 , 167 or RTS3 bodies - admittedly all 3 pin flash connectors....... Steve