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Contax 139Q

Stephen, I didn't have any problem with it. I'm using the 3802 adapter for yashica/contax. I'm only saying that according to the 3802 manual, TTL metering isn't supported for the 139Q. This seems odd since it is supported for RTS2, and the 139Q does offer the TTL metering. I took satisfactory shots with the Metz flash on that camera in TTL mode, but if the TTL wasn't supported it may have switched to Automatic mode (using the on-flash sensor). I can't test this since i no longer have the 139. Nick. >
 
> Stephen, I didn't have any problem with it. I'm using the 3802 adapter> for yashica/contax. I'm only saying that according to the 3802 manual,> TTL metering isn't supported for the 139Q. This seems odd since it is > supported for RTS2, and the 139Q does offer the TTL metering. I took> satisfactory shots with the Metz flash on that camera in TTL mode, but> if the TTL wasn't supported it may have switched to Automatic mode> (using the on-flash sensor). I can't test this since i no longer have> the 139. Nick. >

I'm not sure if the 3802 is the older or newer C/Y adaptor , but either way , it doesnt make much sense to me that it wouldnt work with the 139 . Unfortunately I dont have a Metz flash to try this - very puzzling....... Perhaps you should e-mail Metz to see why they say this about the 139? Steve
 
Fellow Contax Owners.
Thanks for all the help on the flash for my used Contax 139 Q.I will be sourcing for either a Metz or Sunpak.
Since I got my Contax 139 Q and a 50,mm 2.8 Carl Zeiss lens, I have a problem of a white strip of white on the right side and an orangeish strip right at the middle of the left side of the photos that was developed.
This appears even when shooting indoors and outdoors. Anyone have such experience and what is the most probable cause ? One think I noticed is the rubber foam on the mirror is sticky and the foam at the back cover have also worn out. It appears the wearing out of the foam could be the cause,but wouldnt leakage of light cause dark strips instead of white strip ? Puzzled
 
Does anyone know if Kyocera sells replacement light gaskets for the 139Q? I haven't been able to get a response from Kyocera in NJ via phone or email?!

Failing that, can anyone suggest an appropriate material that I can use to create my own gaskets?

TIA,
Dave
 
Dave,

Yes, they have a light seal kit. I had mine done by a Contax tech a few years ago at a Contax dealer demo. (Ah, those were the good old days.)

They also have releathering kits. Your 139 skin has likely as not dissolved by now. Mine looked like the aftermath of a bad sunburn.

--Rick
 
Dave,

>Failing that, can anyone suggest an appropriate material that I can use to create my own gaskets?<

I have used strips cut from a black 'mouse mat', with great success. By cutting the strips slightly wider than the groove (a little trial and error shows how much), you can stretch the material as it is pushed in (I use a blunted wooden cocktail stick) so that it expands to a snug fit and does not need any glue or adhesive. It's time consuming (mostly getting the old stuff out rather than fitting the new seals), but not difficult. You just need: a very sharp cutting knife, a cutting surface, a black mouse mat, a ruler, some cocktail sticks or sharpened matchsticks, lighter fuel (care!) or vodka, and some cotton wool pads. I use small pieces of cotton wool soaking in lighter fuel to work through the camera 'grooves' with a stick to soften up and remove the old light seal material. Then cut new strips and trim them to size and depth - trial and error for the first one. I only wish I'd done this before spending a small fortune with a repairer overhauling the shutter of my RTS to repair what was actually a light leakage, not an intermittent shutter fault. So far, I've done five camera bodies.

I haven't used vodka as a solvent yet, but I know of some who have, and who say it has the advantage that you can drink what's left over.

Alex
 
Jeff: Tried Dino at DRM Photo and he was really helpful. Unfortunately, he, like everyone else I've tried, does not have the part. UNlike everyone else I tried, he did get back to me. He didn't hold out much hope for ever finding the part, but I have a warm place in my heart for people who actually communicate (unlike Contax). I shouldn't say anything, since I notice it takes me months to get back to this message board - sorry. Anyway, thanks for giving me the info re: DRM.

Lyn
 
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