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Contax N-System

Hi Robin,

first of all congratulations to the purchase of your N1!

If you look at "the digital corner" in this Forum, you will find already some threads for the start in scanning/printing and also a link thread with links for digital subjects only.

I would recommend you to buy immediately Adobe Photoshop version 6 or later. This is the industry standard and although I am not yet very familiar with it, the uncountable capabilities of this software is just impressive. For a beginner in digital stuff like me also sometimes frustrating. For scanner/printer questions - same thread in this Forum.

As soon as my webhoster has set up a new, bigger server for me, I will release a totally new designed image upload page for Contaxinfo.com. A so called Contax Photo Gallery with many nice features. A lot more professional then the current solution. I hope to put it online at the end of next week...

dirk
 
Elliot, Peter and Everyone,

I follow with interest the thread regarding Canon v. N1 benefits and flaws. I am a professional nature photographer and the following are my thoughts on the original question re. image stabilization and large aperture lenses.

By intro, I shoot the Contax 645 for 80% of my landscape and macro work--with 35, 45, 80, 120 and 210 lenses (thank God zooms are finally coming!) For my wildlife work, I shoot Canon EOS (I sold out my Nikons many years ago). My lenses are 20-35, 35-350 and 400 2.8 with converters PLUS heavy Gitzo CF tripod and Arca-Swiss head. For ultralight backpacking and panoramic ability, I shoot Mamiya 7II. I do not have a digital camera as I prefer the higher quality of scanning my slides.

My critera, always, is quality, quality, quality. My work is at www.guyharrisonphoto.com (I put my money where my mouth is).

I pick what gear works best and have bought everything I own after extensive rentals and comparisons of different gear.

So much for intro. My first comment is the "sharpness equation." This is film speed, camera motion, subject motion and lens quality. Sharpness requires slower speed film, solid camera support, and shutter speeds sufficient to freeze subject motion. Lens quality is usually the least significant aspect of the equation, as the first three elements have far more impact on image quality. This is real-world truth, not Pop Photo or MTF theory.


Film is a personal choice. The finest quality is in slower speed (ASA 50-100) slide films. Slower print films are also excellent but I do not use them because the professional (publication/print/advertising) market generally prefers slides. If you go with higher speed film, sharpness suffers. I Assume you use high quality film.

As for camera movement, the basic truth is that Gitzo and Slik will do more for sharpness than the finest lenses. A TRIPOD IS ESSENTIAL FOR SHARPNESS. No matter how good you think you are, no handheld shot will be as sharp as a tripod shot except maybe for bright daylight shooting.

If you must shoot handheld, then the new IS systems do indeed work very well especially in the telephoto range (80mm and up). The IS mechanism basically "replaces" a tripod. While the result might not be quite as sharp as a tripod shot, it is an amazing improvement--allowing full professional quality results with careful handholding. The superb optical quality of Zeiss (which I respect but do not necessarily concede in 35mm compared to Canon "L") cannot make up for degrading camera shake. At this time, Contax has no comparable technology, but you can get similar benefits by buying/renting a Kenyon gyro stabilizer (affordable for professionals only--if you are an amateur, go with IS). I used the Kenyon for 10 days on a small boat in SE Alaska with stunning handheld results even with the 645 and 210mm.

If you are buying new, my personal experience has been that Canon's IS is best, especially in the telephoto ranges and with converters where it is needed most--but if you already are a Nikon user, no need to switch.

If you are going to handhold in the telephoto range, IS will outperform Zeiss in the real world--take that to the bank!


However, camera shake is only one variable in the sharpness equation--the other is subject motion. No amount of IS will give you sharpness if you are shooting moving subjects at 1/60 second. To handle subject motion, large apertures (giving higher shutter speeds) are the only option IF you want professional quality images on professional quality film. We don't carry these heavy lenses into the field for fun or for status--they are the gear that gets the job done. Large apertures, of course, also aid in controlling camera shake.

My recommendation, if you want to shoot wildlife and will be handholding, is to go with the Canon 70-200 2.8 (optically superb) IS (technologically excellent)and 1.4 and 2x converters. The other option is the Canon 100-400 3.5-5.6 L IS and a 1.4 converter if needed. The former gives you higher shutter speed without converters, the latter is more versatile.

As my last note, several messages have dealt with AF speed and accuracy. If you are shooting wildlife there is no substitute. Contax AF is good. For professional use, though, Canon is head and shoulders above in terms of speed, accuracy, focus tracking and focus coverage. No slam on Contax, but the fact is that they are 2 generations behind the others.

Personally, I am watching the N system with interest. Contax, probably wisely from a marketing view, did not target nature photography professionals with the initial N offerings. If the N system developed an indestructible pro camera body (like F5 or EOS 1V),lenses and IS comparable to Canon, I would consider a switch as lens quality then becomes more important. Given Contax's long lead time, though, this won't happen for years (and maybe never). I would not wait if you need something now.

I love my Contax 645. The N system is not there, yet. DON'T FALL IN LOVE WITH A BRAND--USE WHAT WORKS FOR YOUR NEEDS.

If you are set on Contax, you are hurt by the absence of a large-aperture telephoto lens. The optical design of the small-aperture lenses may be great, but they are not fast enough to allow quality results handholding with slow speed film.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

Guy Harrison

handheld, if you are shooting wildlife, birds or sports
 
My new N1 has a green zone on the exposure compensation dial, similar to the automatic setting for the shutter speed. The Owner's Manual says that the green stripe on the exposure compensation dial is the "green zone", but doesn't say anything other than to leave that dial set at "O" unless changing the compensation. Can somebody help a rookie???

Thanks in Advance!
Jeff
 
Jeff

I work almost exclusively in aperture mode, so I leave the shutter speed knob on the green mark and the exposure compensation knob on the green mark. The latter allows you to perform exposure compensation using the wheel in front of the shutter release. This is an excellent setup. My 'work flow' if you like is to use spot metering with the centre spot on the part of the subject that I want to be properly exposed to show detail, lock it with the AEL position on the shutter, dial in any exposure compensation with the wheel and then compose and shoot. Sounds long winded but now I have practised I can do all that in two or three seconds.

To speed things up even more, if the light is fairly constant, I will lock in an exposure and shoot at that setting, only using the compensation wheel if the light changes.

A long answer. The short one is, the green mark means that exposure compensation is transferred to the wheel on the camera.

Simon
 
Simon. I too am a recent owner of a new N1, and the 24-85, and the 70-300 lenses, and most certainly like Jeff, am still trying to get accustomed to the controls, after all part of successful photography is understanding your equipment.I have tried out the method that you describe, and find that the compensation values,are only shown on the top panel rather than in the viewfinder,the variation in the shutter speed is shown in the viewfinder of course, is this the case. One other point that you may explain Simon! In Av,Tv,and P Modes a compensation value is always shown on the viewfinder scale,without any values being set on the dials, can you explain please.
Kind Regards. Ken Taylor.
 
Ken

I don't have my N in front of me, so this is from memory (which is bad at the best of times!). I believe this is all in the manual.

In Av mode, the exposure compensation is shown in the viewfinder if you are in spot metering mode. I think for matrix mode (and perhaps centre weighted) it will only show the difference between the metered value and what the camera would have selected in spot. Something like that but it is in the manual somewhere. It definitely does show the compensation that you dial in when in Av mode, exp. knob set the green line and spot metering selected.

Check your metering mode. The exp. compensation scale does show a reading in some settings because it is telling you the difference between what has been metered and what would have been the value if spot (or centre weighted) had been selected.

Simon
 
Hi! Simon. Many thanks, will ckeck it out ASAP.
By the way do you have any experience with the 50mm f1.4 lense, as that will most likely be my next purchase, when funds are available.
Regards Ken
 
Ken

I only use the 24-85mm, 70-300mm and 100mm Macro Sonnar. I bought the N primarliy for the zooms and macro lens, although the 400mm f/4 sounds like it will be interesting, especially if they produce a 1.4x teleconverter for it. A Zeiss 560mm f/5.6 would be awesome I suspect.

I use Leica primes with my M6.

Simon
 
Simon,
THANK YOU for all the terrific information!! Keep it coming!
Thanks again..
Jeff
 
Simon. Thanks for the reply. I have spent a few hours with the camera, and manual, and am now much wiser.It seems that Contax dont think users should require any compensation when using the Evaluative metering. However when one uses either the Spot, or Centre Weighted metering the conpensation values can be set with the command dial, and the values can be seen in the viewfinder.
By the way, I like your idea of using the aperture mode in most cases. I would think with the 24-85 anything taken at f5.6 or f8.0 should be brilliant, unless of course you require Depth of Field,or the background out of focus.
I am eager to get my first film back from the processors to find out the results, but having had Contax before, I am sure it will only prove that the Contax system is superior to the Canon, and Nikons of this world.( In my oppinion )
Thanks once again. Ken.
 
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