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Contax T3

Craig,

I put the Contax UV Filter on my T3 for some environments - dusty, humid & dusty, and high altitude. It removes just a tiny bit of the blueish cast. You can also use off-brand like B+W KR 1.5 [1A], which has a nice coral tone. This is available at www.bhphoto.com in single or multi-coated. Schneideroptics.com has info on various B+W warming filters: http://www.schneideroptics.com/filters/filters_for_still_photography/uv_&_warming/

I find that the choice of film also helps. Fuji Superia is known for its green/blue, Kodak for yellow/red. Agfa Vista series has been my favorite all-around film. It has a nice warm tone, saturation is just right and rendition is good. This is based on shooting landscape at 10,000 ft elevation in the California Sierra with perfect clear, blue sky.

Niki

==========================

Hi.

Does anyone have experience with either the 1A Skylight or A2 (81B) filters? My interest is photographing mountain temples in Japan, but the sky is generally overcast and the scanned negatives come out with a blue cast and a violet sky.

I just bought the Contax T3 but I need to be sure I've got the right filter(s) before my next trip to Japan. I'm not sure I can do much pre-trip testing since I live in Bangkok and there's no rain at this time of the year.

- craig
 
Help, I just got some contact sheets back and i have noticed that when I take pics in bright sun (sunny 16 rule type sun) my pics are almost always overexposed but when indoors or in the shade, everything is fine. I have scanned the contact sheets and tried to determine if there is some reason ( a background or something) that would throw the meter off but so many differnt places, that cannot be the explanation. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I know I ruined two or three excellent shots this way and it is beginning to piss me off. Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
I can think of three possibilities:

Are you perhaps holding the camera outdoors in some way that blocks the light meter? In case you don't know where the meter cell is, a diagram is here:

http://www.contaxinfo2.com/manuals/T3/FrameSet.htm

Is it possible that the high shutter speeds are all off (long)?
Is it possible that the lens isn't able to stop down fully for some reason?

You can test for #3 and perhaps #2 by firing the shutter outdoors with the back open and observing the aperture and the shutter's relative speed. #1 can be tested by test shots on a tripod.

--Rick
 
>>>>>> Help, I just got some contact sheets back and i have noticed that when I take pics in bright sun (sunny 16 rule type sun) my pics are almost always overexposed but when indoors or in the shade, everything is fine. I have scanned the contact sheets and tried to determine .... <<<<

Bradford, because you mention contact sheets, I assume you have used negative film. In that case, you cannot judge the exposure by contact sheets. Negative film has a wide exposure latitude, and the lab will adjust the exposure during the printing stage in order to compensate for under and over exposure in the negative. However, with a contact sheet, the whole roll can only be printed at one exposure setting. It could be that the outdoor shots are fine but the indoor shots are underexposed. You can't tell from the contact sheet, because the lab already "made an adjustment" to what the operator thought was right. Scanning the contact sheet will tell you nothing. You need to scan the film. Only by scanning the film, or printing each frame individually (not a contact sheet) can you judge the over or under exposure. But if you really want to see the camera's exposure accuracy, shoot slide film. Slide film allows you to see directly what the camera recorded.

Contact sheets are just an index to help you see the content of each frame conveniently. It isn't advisable to use contact sheets to judge the accuracy of exposure.
 
Craig, I understand what you are saying. I went back to the film to take a look and the negatives are definitely overexposed. So, what now? Should I just set the camera up for exposure compensation on sunny days?

As to earlier suggestions, while it makes sense that it is a possibilty that I could be covering up the part of the camera that makes the meter readings, it makes no sense that I would do this only on especially sunny days and not in interiors or shady conditions.

I do think the camera is still under warantee. I got it less than six months ago.
 
> Brad,

many cameras deliberately over-expose negatives in bright light. I have seen exposure tests for several autofocus SLRs and it is there to see at high EV levels. I can see advantages in that approach as bright light usually means high contrast and over exposing the image will bring up detail in the deep shadows while permitting the latitude of negative film to prevent blowing out the highlights. As to this behaviour with slide film, you will simply have to test it using an accurate incident meter as a comparison. Does the camera have a linear response to light or not. I have read discussions that say some cameras use DX information to distinguish between transparency and negative film and select appropriate exposure curves. Does anyone have any knowledge about this?

Gary.
 
Thanks, John and Niki.

Another problem I have is that several times when photographing flowers (lots of small, light-colored petals with a generally dark background), the background is OK but the flowers seem overexposed. This happens even when the flowers take up most of the shot and are centre-frame. My guess is it is due to reflected light, particularly after rain.

Is there any kind of filter or technique that would solve the problem?

- craig
 
To Craig

Such a lot of fuss made over a point and shoot camera! I have a Contax T3 and I use it for what it was made for-pointing and shooting. If you want to precisely previsulise your subject and exposure, use a Hasselblad and a spotmeter as I do. Then you'll really get the pictures.No more complaining....

Greg
 
To the Forum Members

I have had this camera for a year and have put it thoroughly through its paces. I can say that it is good at what it does best-pointing and shooting, and recording sharp and acceptably well-exposed pictures. This is good, and it fulfills any expectations that I had.

I have since put this camera down and have not used it for about 6 months. This camera, whilst very convenient for that grab shot, is absolutely no substitite for a bona fide 35mm camera with full exposure control. And why should it be, since it hasn't been built or marketed as such. However it is amusing the way in which this forum puts the camera on a pedastool. One mustn't take this little gem so seriously-it's simply a point and shoot and is not capable of delivering a previsualised image.(Previsulaisation is akin to "intent" on the part of the photographer and is essential to the production of a dynamic and 'truthful' representation). It is also amusing that such a forum exists exclusively for one camera alone. Over here in Japan such fanatics are called "OTAKU". In other countries you go by another name.

With amateur forums such as this, members take more interest in gear rather than in what constitutes great imagery. An outright shame.

I would suggest to all of you to refrain from being so anally retentive about this camera and get out there and make some photographs worthy of discussion.

It may be that I am stirring up a hornets nest here, but that's fine and dandy with me and I accept all that is thrown at me.

Best regards and happy snapping!

Greg Clements
 
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