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First one here? More please!

I think LEDs will more or less replace flash. Smartphones don't reliably sync with flash, beginners have trouble understanding the concepts, and video only works with continuous lights, so I doubt much R&D is directed at flash.
But, as in most cases of pessimism, I'd love to be wrong.
I see very little development going on in the strobe business. Broncolor doesn't seem to be putting effort to revamping its offering which makes business sense based on the current photography climate.

Hasselblad's svelte X2D direction seems promising and would give the leaf shutter options that I like, but I just think Hasselblad has lost its way with what I get the feeling is a half-baked offering (though I like it over the other MF offerings at the moment). No remote shutter release? Yiiikes!
 
One more question. Like I said before, I own 2 strobes ((Godox AD400pro and AD300pro). With the Godox AD400pro for maybe a parabolic light shaper, what second light shaper would you choose for the AD300pro? I was thinking about a simple striplight (maybe hair light and background lighting). Not sure what size though. What’s your idea?
thank you.
 
One more question. Like I said before, I own 2 strobes ((Godox AD400pro and AD300pro). With the Godox AD400pro for maybe a parabolic light shaper, what second light shaper would you choose for the AD300pro? I was thinking about a simple striplight (maybe hair light and background lighting). Not sure what size though. What’s your idea?
thank you.
** I would have to know what you shoot and your preferred aesthetics / what kind of results you want to achieve, before making a recommendation. Some recommendations come independent of aesthetics; First, get at least one good light stand. I recommend getting one where you can use it both with the legs open, *and also with legs closed!*... the Avenger stands with the angled sections above each wheel gives the stand a sturdy position while in the "closed" position - perfect for placing a bare strobe on the stand while in a corner or very closed confines. Heavy duty stands will save you a lot of grief, concern, and wondering "is this stand adequate for this modifier and light?", in the long run.

What's a good light shaper for one may not be optimum for another - it's all about aesthetics and there isn't a right or wrong answer. What are you mostly shooting? What kind of results do you want? (e.g. even/softly lit subjects, or dramatically lit subject matter?) For portrait work of various kinds - The light shapers I've use most are:

Broncolor Ringflash C: Absolutely one of my favorite and most useful, practical, expedient light modifiers when it comes to me getting paid. It's far more versatile that many know, especially when used with grids, and various "beauty" modifiers (polished / unpolished). In a studio setting I will often use the ringflash in conjunction with a Para - so often I'll use the Para, the Ringflash, and a strip softbox (or bare strobe, whether it be a Bowens 500 Esprit, Broncolor strobe, or one of my favorites... Nikon SB800 speed light attached to a radio receiver or simply set to fire when it detects a flash, etc..) laying on the floor to better illuminate the back of high heels, especially if the backs/soles of the heels are matte black. For me, a low-powered ringflash won't cut it, especially shooting outdoors on a bright beach at 1pm when I have the sun to the subject's back, so they're not squinting.. the white sand is troublesome enough. When I'm on the beach up to my ankles/mid calf in the surf, photographing a gal in the water in a ball gown, 1200ws often isn't a lot of power, especially once you don a Circular Polarizer filter and stop down to F10 or so.

Broncolor Para 133: (without a doubt the most versatile for me with quick set up and tear down, However I like the light from the larger 177 and 222 best): If you're wanting to minimize your workload and have a nice specular/brilliant (as opposed to milky soft light) lighting your subject, the parabolic can work very well for that. For what I do - I'd buy it before a softbox hands down... but that's based on the aesthetic results that *I* happen to like and want to achieve in my photography... which I admit can be a bit quirky as I'm not trying to emulate every Jill, Janet and Jane. For me the Para 133, 177 and 222 are like what it feels like to use a drill press after years of manually drilling with a hand held power drill. It's very easy to work with in my opinion, and cut through a lot of crap - you set it up, and adjust it how you want it. It's not rocket science. Hell will turn to ice cream thrice before you find me trying to set up 3 or four soft boxes to light a single subject. I don't have time for that - and definitely no time for the set up/take down of that kind of set up. I'd rather set up a Para 133 or 177 (a bit slower to set up) and be done with it.. getting a nice enveloping light on the subject with minimal fuss. * If you want to equate this modifier to a sporting car, it would be a Porsche 911 Turbo S. It's an all-rounder that is hard to beat - especially when you put a dollar value on your time. * Placing a large heavy strobe on the focusing rod is ridiculous to me, but whatever people want to do with their own equipment is up to them and fine with me. I restrict myself to putting the smaller strobes on the Para focusing rods.

Because you mentioned it in a post - Briese (not a brand I use): ... meh (what I think)... The bottom line *for me* is that Briese (their parabolics) doesn't look as good as the Broncolor Paras; Broncolor looks more "brilliant" and the Briese less spectacular with the light being less specular to my eyes. I wouldn't pay a premium for that. Whether Broncolor stole the idea from Briese or not doesn't concern my purse or business.

Large softbox: Scattered soft white light - it's a low-cost but highly effective modifier that you can't go wrong with in my opinion... I prefer the light from the Paras most of the time, but there are times where one may want a soft light, and softboxes are excellent in that regard. However, I really dislike setting them up (speed ring + rods) ... and I'm being eh.. nice.

Strip / thin softbox: Use as Hair light, High Heels light, use to light backgrounds, use to partially light nudes, etc.. The uses are many. I use strip boxes when I want a "slice" of light to hit across particular areas of a subject. Sometimes I may want to only illuminate the mid-section of a subject, showing off their abdominal muscles and belly ring-jewelry for example.

Bare Strobe: I'll use these in many different ways - one way is to put a bare strobe on a long piece of rebar (fits perfectly) that's firmly planted in the sand. Perfect hair light, etc.. I am also quick to boom a bare strobe, as often I want an old Hollywood look with rather hard light, especially when converting files to black and white / grayscale. Bare strobes are also nice when hand-held, and shooting on-the-fly, e.g., in a motel room or beach cottage, where I'm following the subject throughout the house as the subject free-styles their poses.

Wouldn't you know, Broncolor seems to be debuting a new Studio pack and lamp later this year. Good to hear. Looks like they've made some strides.

Ok, that's off the top of my head at 2:20am with jet lag and tired eyes - I hope this helps!
 
Thank you very much teiladay! Now that' s an extensive answer ....especially at 2:20am with a jet lag! (y)
Starting with strobes after many, many years of available light indoors, those Broncolor parabolic are just too much money for me. As are those Brieses. My choice (next best in line), would be Parabolix...(45 version; comparable in size to the Broncolor 133, but much cheaper. In my opinion still a "true" parabolic reflector with good results. Though no match for the Broncolor in speed of set up/tear down).
I don' t think I'll use those light much outdoors. So no need to overpower the sun...yet.
After reading your comment, I think a stripbox would probably serve me best. Now I have to look for the proper size.
A light stand for the 400AD Pro, I think I' ll get the Avenger 5042CS Roller Low Base. That should comfortably hold the Parabolix 45 and the 400AD Pro (it's not a large heavy strobe anyway); unfortunately a possible extension head has a cable that's too short in my opinion.
When I really dive further and further into studio photography, then I might get myself one of these Broncolor parabolics; too many good stories about them...but (as I said), too expensive for me, as I' m just starting of with using strobes indoors.
 
The Parabolix 45 seems to be a very viable choice. Remember that you don't have to spend money if it's not going to benefit you much over another product. Many using Broncolor Paras, etc., started using/purchasing them long before other brands had comparable offerings - even today after all these years I think Parabolix may be the only real Broncolor.
contender when it comes to Parabolic modifiers. The Avenger 5042CS will easily hold a Pro studio strobe from virtually any manufacturer + Para 222... let alone a Parabolix 45. If you don't need the extra 1.0 ft. or so in height, I'd just go with the 11.8 ft. version and put that $100+ into something else. Keep in mind that these roller stands spread out fairly wide, nearly 6ft., and the Avenger 5036 holds 88lbs... which to me means it's a solid 50lb stand. Generally, my stands are tasks to hold less than what the stand itself weighs.

Lights: Please be cognizant that power outdoors isn't just about "over powering the sun" - ... it's about far more than that. It's about when you're stopped down to the smaller apertures, base iso, and have a filter or two on the lens... then what? Now you may be at a 3 stop deficit. What about when it's really bright out and you want a 2-3 stop ND filter in addition to a Circular Polarizer or partial ND filter or a combination of all three because you don't have time for making a composite of several shots later. Now you're sucking wind on power and you haven't even gotten started! ... that kind of thing. Power is like a life preserver.. you don't need power... until you do. Be sure to plan for that, especially if you plan to shoot-for-pay.

3 lights or more is nice, but 2 lights is *easily* enough to do a lot of paid portrait work. one (1) large softbox, plus (1) strip softbox or combination of bare strobe with 'barn doors' is quite a nice fundamental starting point in my opinion. 100 photographers will have 100 preferences. The right way for you will be predicated on what you like/your preferred aesthetic - I can't stress that enough. Even a single light with silver or white reflectors to bounce light to the hair can be surprisingly effective. The strip softbox that I mainly use (an old Photoflex Halfdome 2) is about 33in. long, 10in. wide, with an effective aperture (dimensions where the light can actually come out of the softbox) is roughly 27in. long and 5in. wide; mated to an old Bowens 500ws monolight. I often like a bit longer strip lights (e.g. for backgrounds), but this works very well much of the time. In situations where I can mix & match strobes, I'm forced to sometimes shoot slower due to the much slower recycling times of the Bowens lights. I have to add however that after traveling 'round the globe with me and being tasked to perform in weather from well below freezing, to near 100F and 90% humidity on the beach - I've been impressed (read "surprised") by their reliability. I did have to send one in for maintenance under warranty many years ago, but the lights haven't caused me to groan other than that.

Eager to hear about your final set up and what you ultimately decide.
 
Thank you once again! As before, very informative. Learn a lot.
According to the information I get, The Avenger 5036CS Roller 36 Low Base can hold the same weight as the Avenger 5042CS Roller 42 Low Base (40 kg).
Yes, the max, height of the 5042 is 420cm (vs 360cm for the 5036). I think 360cm could be enough, but in case of the 5036 I would have to raise all section to maximum. In case of the 5042 I wouldn't ' t have to do that to get to 360cm; the 30mm diameter section doesn't need to be raised all the way. That could possibly mean more stability overall. Beside that, there' s € 20,- price difference between those 2, where I live. So, not much at all.
Still, the 5042 could be overkill. Not sure yet what I' ll choose; both will do.
Also negatives about that 5042 ofcourse (minimum height is a bit higher (166cm vs 156cm/ bit longer for transport;142cm vs 130cm) / 150cm spread instead of 140cm/ higher weight; 1.8 kilo).
I' ll try to see them both in a shop somewhere, to have a better comparison (although not sure that will be easy).
I' ll also take a look at different strip boxes. In my opinion this doesn' t have to be an expensive item; a cheap one will do. A light stand for that also doesn' t have to be so expensive (small light and not the main light source as a Parabolix would be).
I already have a few reflectors.

I'll post here, when I ordered all items. It has taken long enough to think about ll this. Now it' s time to practice, practice and practice, I think.
Both you and Macro guy have been/are very helpful(y)(y)(y)(y)
 
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Just an update.
Parabolix 45" has arrived a few days ago (in just 3 days from LA to Europe!). Looks impressive and very well made.
Avenger 5042CX Roller 42 Low Base (for Godox AD400Pro and Parabolix) + Avenger 2030DKIT C-Stand kit 30 (for Godox AD300 and a 30x120 stripbox) are ordered....will probably arrive in a week or so.
Not sure yet which (brand) stripbox, but SMDV Flip looks attractive.
For the moment I've left the idea of booming above model; I' ll first see what can be done with what I have/get.
Thnxs for all advice!
 
Just a short update.....
Avenger 5042CS Roller 42 Low Base and the Avenger C-Stand have arrived. Hefty and impressive stands (especially the Roller). I ordered the SMDV 30x120cm Flip Stripbox. Saw another SMDV in store and it really looks very well made. Apart from that, the setup is really easy and quick!
Booming seems asking too much for that C-Stand (or any C-stand).
 
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