DPR Forum

Welcome to the Friendly Aisles!
DPRF is a spin-off of dpreview. We are a photography forum with people from all over the world freely sharing their knowledge and love of photography. Everybody is welcome, from beginners to the experienced professional. From smartphone to Medium Format.

DPRF is a community for everybody, every brand and every sensor format. Digital and film.
Enjoy this modern, easy to use software. Look also at our Reviews & Gallery!

G2 general questions

> I believe digital photography is an art form in and of itself. Capturing an image digitally, then using Photoshop to modify, enhance etc. is just not the same as recording an image on film. Now, as to art: Ansel Adams was one of the great artists in photographic history. Part of his art was in selecting and recording an image but in addition, he was one of the great printers of all time. Kind of similar to Photoshop. I am sure his images are still being printed according to his instructions as to dodging, holding back, and different development techniques. In that respect, his art is quite different from a color photo recorded by a photographer who simply sends it to a lab and asks for a high quality print. What digital has done is to make it easier to apply after shooting "art techniques" to photographs without exposing one's self to chemicals or having to work in the dark. In the end we are all looking for pictures that make people Ooh and Aah. DH
 
>poor focusing. Read about poor metering. Read about poor quality >control in general. What's the synopsis of all this.

Synopsis: No;No;No. Cheers
 
> Hi there

I'm planning to buy a second hand G2 with the classic lenses trio (28 - 45 - 90) Could you suggest me what should i check in the body or the lenses, I mean, except the standard checks use to do in a normal srl, there is something special, a particular part or piece that needs more attention or whatelse ??

Thanks
 
Hi Luke,

I'm no expert on this, but I do know that the shutter leaf on the Gs is very thin and fragile. Look at it carefully for any signs that someone has touched it or pushed on it in any way.

I would also carefully look at the camera back hinges for any signs of corrosion - as with most metal cameras, prolonged operation near saltwater spray will corrode those hinge areas first.

When you remove the lens, you can also take a close look at the lens contacts for any signs of abuse or dirt buildup. At least, if dirty, it will give you an indication that the camera may not have been well-cared for. That goes for the surface where the lens contacts the body too. Watch for gouges. These lenses don't mount as quickly/slickly as some SLR lenses, so carelessness or being in a hurry while mounting a lens could cause some gouging/scratching in that area.

If anyone has any other or better suggestions.......!

At least, those are the things I looked closely at when I bought my used G2.

Mark Edwards
 
Derek, can you explain your comment, "if you don't adjust the axis of the camera to compensate for the focus shift . . . ." to me? I would never have thought that just slightly turning the camera to recompose would have much effect on depth of field, except on macro photography. So I would like to understand what you must do and when the limitations for depth of field require this compensation. Thanks, Scott
 
Hi, Scott.

When i made that comment, i was probably thinking more of working with SLRs, and their faster lenses. I don't know that this holds true for the G2. But, with the N1 and a 50mm 1.4 or the 85mm 1.4, if your subject (for me, portraits, not macro) is close and you want to selectively focus on an eye, and have the rest of the face fall out of focus.... If you first focus on that eye, and then change the composition so that the eye no longer is set where the sensor is, you may have changed (very slightly) the distance between the lens and the eye. With just a slight rotation, that distance may change a matter of millimeters or a few centimeters. With an 85mm 1.4, depth of field is not forgiving of those minute changes, so you have to be conscious of keeping those distances equal. With the multiple focus point sensors of some cameras, that's a bit easier. But i don't really like to use all five sensors, as it requires using the joystick to navigate to them and the constant switching keeps me thinking about things other than composition. It's like playing a video game while photographing.... And, the G2 only has a center sensor, right, so you always have to focus lock and then recompose unless you like your subjects always in the middle of the picture....

So, as i said, it's less critical with an f2/45mm lens except at the closest focus ranges, and not at all critical with the 35mm or wider. I'd be careful with a 90/2.8....

These are just measures that can ensure more 'keepers.' It may also be the reason why there's such a thing as focus bracketing in the N1. For ex&les of the extreme with shallow depth of field, check Mark Tucker's site (www.marktucker.com). He now favours a Canon 85mm 1.2 lens, and he shoots everything wide open. Focus is so critical with that lens that he can't even rely on the amazing EOS AF. He works manually, and has to bracket focus.... and that's with everything locked down on a tripod, and stationary subjects....
 
Derek, thanks for the response. I checked the website, but he doesn't explain the technique. Could you elaborate a little more on it? I'd like to understand enough to use the technique myself as I like to shoot as wide open as possible the majority of the time and, since purchasing the G2 recently am using the 45 and the 90 and will be shooting at 2.0 and 2.8 respectively a lot. Thanks again, Scott
 
Hi,

What can anyone who has used both the 35 and 45 say about the differences between them. The 45 has a higher rating, (substantially, 4.6 vs 4.1) than the 35...so I'm questioning if getting the 35 is really worth it. Any insight appreciated.

Regards,

Austin
 
Austin,
There was a whole thread on this topic:
Contax User Forum » Contax G-System » G-lenses » G 45 vs.35 etc
I would say it is just a matter of which angle of vision you prefer. Regarding sharpness, I cannot tell the difference in the results (I have only shot B&W with the 35, and I have not tested them side by side). As 35mm lenses go, and according to the Photodo ratings you mention, the Planar G seems to have better ratings than most other 35mm lenses (including Contax 35mm 2.8 for the C/Y mount!). Considering the price, I think it is definitely worth it if you like the focal length.

Juan
 
Back
Top