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P.S. - one addtional question: I also have a Pentax AF220T (used on theit SLR, ttl), will this work with the G1?
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Guest
A little late replying to this thread. Just wanted to say thanks, Clive, for the info on the fill flash subject. It makes sense to me the way you put it. And as for you being an economical Yorkshireman creating your own diffusers, sounds good! There are so many gadgets out there to suck up a persons money, why not improvise? Save the cash for important things, like lenses 
(I've got another question about a specific yashica flash that I'll post in the appropriate thread. ) Thanks, Lynn
(I've got another question about a specific yashica flash that I'll post in the appropriate thread. ) Thanks, Lynn
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Guest
A little late replying to this thread. Just wanted to say thanks, Clive, for the info on the fill flash subject. It makes sense to me the way you put it. And as for you being an economical Yorkshireman creating your own diffusers, sounds good! There are so many gadgets out there to suck up a persons money, why not improvise? Save the cash for important things, like lenses
Thanks, Lynn
Thanks, Lynn
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Guest
Still working on testing it in all sorts of situations...but so far, it's working great. The manual is almost worthless, but once it's set on the proper TLA setting, it seems to sync up just right.
Hope that helps.
Craig
Hope that helps.
Craig
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Guest
In early January, I posted a message on this forum that I ordered a YC 1D module to work with a Sunpak 444D. I received the YC-1D module soon after I ordered it (good job Adorama) and am using it with an old 444D I bought 10 or 15 years ago. It is compatiable and works well with the G2. The G2 view finder shows when the 444D is charged up and ready to fire and the speed (1/60). The results of my photos shot with the flash and YC-1D module are very good. I have not yet experimented with the exposure compensation dial to see if I can fine tune exposure in certain situations. In order to avoid red eye and direct flash, I use a 45 degree reflector, I rotate the 444D head so it facing up and the 45 degree reflector directs the flash to the subject. I am very satisfied with the results. The 444D and YC-1D is a cost effective flash solution to G2 flash. In the future I will experiment with using the flash as a fill-in as it has that capability, as well as see if the exposure compensation dial has any effect, since it is TTL - I am not sure.
I recommend the 444D and YC-1D combination to other G2 users, it is cost effective, it is flexible especially with a 45 degree reflector and has a number of features; Sunpak offers other modules so the flash is probably compatiable with other cameras you may use.
Howard
ps in case you are wondering I do no own any stock in Sunpak so my opinion is only influenced by the quality of the photo output when I use my 15 year 444D (without zoom).
I recommend the 444D and YC-1D combination to other G2 users, it is cost effective, it is flexible especially with a 45 degree reflector and has a number of features; Sunpak offers other modules so the flash is probably compatiable with other cameras you may use.
Howard
ps in case you are wondering I do no own any stock in Sunpak so my opinion is only influenced by the quality of the photo output when I use my 15 year 444D (without zoom).
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Guest
Howard,
On the strength of your experience I just purchased the Sunpak 444D/YC-1D combination. I don't have any results back yet, but it does appear to work well electromechanically. After the first few uses, I moved mine off-shoe because together they make a rather "tippy" combination. I use a Contax coiled cord and a Stroboframe. It makes for a rather silly looking rig, given the diminuitive G2, but it handles well. :>)
DGA
On the strength of your experience I just purchased the Sunpak 444D/YC-1D combination. I don't have any results back yet, but it does appear to work well electromechanically. After the first few uses, I moved mine off-shoe because together they make a rather "tippy" combination. I use a Contax coiled cord and a Stroboframe. It makes for a rather silly looking rig, given the diminuitive G2, but it handles well. :>)
DGA
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Guest
Now... I just received my TLA 140 and have a question about slow shutterspeed. When I set the flash on Manual and the camera on manual, I get funny readings if I have to go by the camera's meter. Say, for instance, I focus on my cat, and by looking at the shutterspeed info and the upward and downward arrows, I should use f2 on 1/30 sec to shoot a cat that about 1 meter away from me.
Does this make sense to you? I wonder why is the camera doing this. Otherwise, it seems to be working fine. Mind you, I'm setting both, camera and flash in manual (not turning off AF, let me add).
Maybe I should buy the instructions for the TLA140 instead.
Thanks!!! Francisco
Does this make sense to you? I wonder why is the camera doing this. Otherwise, it seems to be working fine. Mind you, I'm setting both, camera and flash in manual (not turning off AF, let me add).
Maybe I should buy the instructions for the TLA140 instead.
Thanks!!! Francisco
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Hi Fransisco,
When the camera is on Manual it simply gives you the ambient reading for the aperture and does not allow for any flash exposure. You have to do that.
Clive
When the camera is on Manual it simply gives you the ambient reading for the aperture and does not allow for any flash exposure. You have to do that.
Clive
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Guest
So, Clive, in other words... the camera is right? Will I get correct exposures by opening the lens all the way to f2, while my subject is at about 1 meter from me? Experience tells me that I should try closing down the lens at f8... I am confused! Sorry about this, but I'm not getting this logic too well.
Now, if as you say (I've read your post again), the camera in manual doesn't allow or consider flash exposure... Man!!! Lots of overexposed kitties coming in this roll of film!!!
Oh, well, I had to burn about two or three rolls of film when I got my SB-28 just to get the hang of it... and I am still uncertain about results when I use it. Thanks for your reply, Clive. I'll keep you posted (I'm taking the film to a lab for one-hour developing right now).
Now, if as you say (I've read your post again), the camera in manual doesn't allow or consider flash exposure... Man!!! Lots of overexposed kitties coming in this roll of film!!!
Oh, well, I had to burn about two or three rolls of film when I got my SB-28 just to get the hang of it... and I am still uncertain about results when I use it. Thanks for your reply, Clive. I'll keep you posted (I'm taking the film to a lab for one-hour developing right now).
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Guest
Francisco,
For fill flash, you are trying to balance ambient and flash illumination, such that the flash adds the same level of light to the shadows as is being given to the highlights by natural light. Therefore you meter and expose for the ambient light and allow the flash to pump a small fill into the shadows at the same light level.
For fill flash, you are trying to balance ambient and flash illumination, such that the flash adds the same level of light to the shadows as is being given to the highlights by natural light. Therefore you meter and expose for the ambient light and allow the flash to pump a small fill into the shadows at the same light level.