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Hyperfocal focusing

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davea

how do you use it with a G1? Using the scale,with a 45mm lense the Hyperfocal distance at F8 is 9.2 mtrs.So do you then go on manual and simply set the scale to 9.2mtrs? And if so,how do you do that when the scale is so small between 5mtrs and infinity?
 
nice from you have this one posted.
well, from the beginning straigth to the the end:
i'm not a real contax-g owner - that is: i have a g1 body, but no lenses, 'cause i'm bought 'em and i'm waiting the arrival -
i do not believe you can use that hyperfocal trick as on a manual-focus contraption: you only can close the diaphgram and hope for the best results. the matter is, that autofocus things needs to be in focus somewhere in real world, while you can set every in-your-mind focus point on a manual camera, as a leica or an old pentax, or nikon paperweigh. and get fantastic pics in this way, maybe. next week i hope i'll get a couple of lenses, and i'll would be able to tell more.
 
> Actually, I don't entirely agree.

> If you set your G1 (or G2) to manual focus, and you know the > hyperfocal distance for your chosen aperture, it's quite possible to > set the camera by turning the focus dial (on top right of camera on > G1, on front of G2) while watching the liquid crystal display on the > top plate. The display shows the distance set in meters. On my G2, it > gives fractions of a meter up to 7.9m, then whole meters from 8 - 15m, > then infinity. So you may have to settle for 9 metres, rather than > 9.2, and I certainly find it easier to set a G2 than a G1 (the G1 > works in the same way, but is much more sensitive and thus more hit > and miss to set) but, providing you turn the dial slowly, and don't > mind fiddling a bit, it's quite possible to do it. I use this > technique all the time for landscape shots with both my G1 and G2. In > fact, if I couldn't do this, I'd probably have sold the cameras by > now. It's such an essential part of my outdoor working method.

> I guess the reason it isn't particularly easy on the G series cameras > has to do with the whole design rational behind them which I assume is > prioritised for quick, rapid use, reportage style. But their light > weight and superb optics makes them ideal for the kind of > travel/landscape photography which I enjoy. I do wish the lenses had > conventional dof scales but, given their quality and low cost, i don't > mind relying on a bit of laminated card instead!!

> Hope this helps, best wishes, Malc
 
...and the "quick and dirty" method of achieving the same result without the "fiddling" is to just lock the focus on an object (in your ex&le) about 9 meters away , and then to transfer this locked focus to your own composition. And if the only suitable object is 6 meters away, then just back-up 3 meters and repeat... As I recall, the G2 Instruction Manual (still available from Kyocera for $14) has a lengthy and useful section on this (and more - as they say, if all else fails, ....read the instructions!).

Corresponding adaptations can deal with exposure issues.

Although there have been a lot of complaints about the G-2 focusing, after one gets used to its idiosyncrasies , it seems natural after a while. My only complaint about the G-2 system based on my own quite limited experience is that the 90mm portrait lens is so astonishingly sharp, that it is not always so flattering. The truth sometimes hurts !

Good luck with it !

David
 
thanks for the replies,i thought as much.With the lense stopped right down for a scenery shot,the Hyperfocal measure will be under 5 on the dial of the G1 making it easier to set the dial.I don't think i will bother with wider aps,just set to infinity and make do.But I can imagine wanting maximum dof for a shot with an interesting foreground.One a year for me them
sad.gif
 
Dave Aston said: "I don't think i will > bother with wider aps,just set to infinity and make do.But I can > imagine wanting maximum dof for a shot with an interesting > foreground.One a year for me them
sad.gif
"

Without looking at my tables; If you want maximum DOF set lens opening to f/16 (not f/22) and distance to about 15ft not infinity.

Dave V
 
thanks for the replies,but why not f22?

Usually the lens is sharpest at f/11 then goes down in each direction. Of course depth of field is better at f/22. So f/16 is the best compromise.

Dave
 
> thanks for the replies,but why not f22? > > Usually the lens is sharpest at f/11 then goes down in each direction. Of > course depth of field is better at f/22. So f/16 is the best compromise. > > Dave >
 
FYI

Zeiss recommends f8 for sharpness.

An interesting point and shoot feature on the original Contaflex is that they have red markings at f8 & 20 feet which will focus from 9 feet to infinity.

Regards
Gilbert
 
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