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Leica Elpro 12 11 Adapter for 100mm f28

DJ, I do remember you saying that your bag is heavy. I like 5D more than 1DsII.

I am not able to compare Leica 100 2.8 + Elpro and Zeiss C-Y 100 2.8 because I don't have both.

What i can say is after extensive use of my Zeiss 100 2.8, numerous discussions in the forum, and deduction from my experience, I believe Zeiss 100 2.8 has a superior performance at high magnifications to the Leica counterparts.

Focusing from infinity to 1:1 magnification is a very long range. Leica covers this range by moving the whole set of lens elements forwards and backwards. This is the case in both Leica 60 2.8 and Leica 100 2.8. Further magnification is achieved by increasing the distance between the lens and the film by Elpro.

As my job does not allow me to manipulate with the lens and Elpro, we have no choice but to use Zeiss. Instead of lens extension, Zeiss cover the whole range by using floating elements. Apart from moving the whole set of lens elements, the lens elements also moves relative to each other in a very complex way.

The application of floating elements ensure good image quality even when you focus down to 1:1 magnification.

Zeiss applied floating elements in lens like 21 2.8, 28 2,60 2.8 macro, 85 1.2, 100 2.8 macro. These are exceptionally good lenses.

Leica also applied floating elements in the new M75 2 ASPH. This lens has very good image quality over all the focusing range.

I think it is a pity that Leica did not apply the floating elements into 100 2.8 and 60 2.8. Although these lenses have good performance at the normal range, at large magnifications there is room for improvements.

Son Minh Pham compared the two lenses Leica 100 2.8 and Zeiss C-Y 100 2.8, he came to the conclusion that Leica is better at normal range, but the performance is taken over by Zeiss at large magnifications.
 
Joseph, thanks, that's very interesting. How does the Zeiss C-Y 100/2.8 compare to the Leitz in terms of size and weight?
 
Its weight is 740g.See if I can upload it for you.

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MakroPlanar_MF_2 (126.5 k)</td></tr></table></center>

If not, try this.

http://www.zeiss.de/C12567A8003B58B9?Open

Its size increases 2-3 times when going from infinity to 1:1.

I am playing with my new toy now.
 
Joseph, you're darned right that bag is heavy - about 20+ lbs.
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. But the 1DsII is really a small part of that. Taking 1.5 lbs. off just puts a small dent. It's all those darned heavy primes: CZ 35/1.4, CZ 85/1.4, Leica 100/2.8 APO & CZ 180/2.8, plus the wides.

BTW, the CZ 35/1.4 also has floating elements as well as an Asph one. It doesn't get talked about much but I love it. I left this one heavy dude at home as well as the CZ 25/2.8 when I went to Arizona a couple of weeks ago and used the Leica 21-35/4 Asph for most of my wide shooting, with an occasional use of the CZ 18/4.

Since the shooting was mostly tripod-based I had no need for a fast wide. The 21-35 is a wonderful lens, and so light, Joseph
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. It occasionally has a bit of red CA towards the corners which is easily corrected in PS, but the flare is very well controlled. The contrast and color are also beautiful, to my eyes.

Sorry, I should open a thread on this lens rather than take up space in the 100/2.8 thread
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I wish to reduce my weight as well, not the camera bag but my body weight !

I went to UK once with the following; RX, 21 2.8, 25 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.7, 85 1.4, 100 2.8.

I've changed so that now I carry a lot less. If I were going back again, I would have S2, 21 2.8, 35 2.8 , 50 1.7, 85 2.8 +extension ring for macro.

Once one knows the lenses more and confidence builds up, one remains happy with a smaller bag.

DJ, don't you feel tiresome with the digital workflow ? With 1DsII, they are just mindblowing. This is why I switch to film and rangefinders.
 
Joseph, you are joking! I used to spend days in the wet darkroom to get a few finished prints. I had a Jobo ATL-3 and Omega D-5500 with a Philips additive colorhead that I hacked my own controls to.

Two weeks ago I came back from Arizona with 500+ raw images, and in four evenings after work had over 60 nice 11x17 prints.

My workflow normally takes about 2-4 minutes per selected image. Some take less, a few that need work - maybe too much sensor dust or some other problem - may take 10-15 minutes. This gives me a really nice proof I am happy to show, better than I ever got with 35mm or MF film several years ago.

After a week or two or later down the road, I may revisit some images. Once in a blue moon I may spend an hour or two on a particlarly bad problem I am trying to save. Also, if I were selling or doing an exhibit, then I would spend some extra time perfecting those, but I don't sell or do exhibits yet
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I love this stuff - it's an absolute joy after the wet darkroom, and far less bothersome and far more predictable and controlled than scanning film. On the other hand, I do have a big workstation with dual 22" CRTs and three RAID arrays. I happen to be a PC geek too, lucky for me
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I have never enjoyed photography as much as I am doing now, doing stop-down metering and manually focusing Leica and Zeiss lenses on my 1DsII. Go figure!
 
Well, I would get a headache if I were you.

What I normally do is to get the people to do it for me. I am sure you are right that processing digital images is easier than film if you are doing everything yourself.

I normally leave the film in the lab, so that I have nothing to do. I get headaches if I process 500 raw images from 1DsII.
 
Just goes to show. I on the other hand want nobody else having anything to do with it. How's that saying go? One man's sushi is another man's poison? Actually using French that could be one man's poisson is another man's poison
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For landscaps, the digital workflow is easier.

The digital workflow of portraits could be more difficult. I find the colour balance of the skin could be tricky. I had experience of adjusting the colour for two hours in one shoot, in the end I was still not as happy as if I were shooting film. There is still in many occasion that I find the digital image of portraits less natural or having an artificial look. Digital processing still fails to normalize this problem, or at least no matter how hard I tried.
 
That's definitely true, Joseph. How do you normally try to get a nice color - what controls / attributes do you vary?

We should probably move this topic to the proper section and out of this thread. Why don't you start a topic about color balancing for natural skin tones or some such? I know there's a few people on the CameraInfo forums who deal with this successfully.
 
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