DPR Forum

Welcome to the Friendly Aisles!
DPRF is a spin-off of dpreview. We are a photography forum with people from all over the world freely sharing their knowledge and love of photography. Everybody is welcome, from beginners to the experienced professional. From smartphone to Medium Format.

DPRF is a community for everybody, every brand and every sensor format. Digital and film.
Enjoy this modern, easy to use software. Look also at our Reviews & Gallery!

Speed problems Epson 1290s

Hi Paul,

I just checked it again. Here is my set up this time:

I printed out an A4 portrait scan on Epson Premium Glossy Photo Paper with my Epson 1290.

The portait was made with my Contax N1 and the 24-85 @85 and 4.5 aperture. Distance ca. 50cm to the face. Fuji Provia 100F rated -1/3. Scanned with Nikon Supercoolscan 4000 at 4000 ppi, ICE=fine, no color management by Nikon 3.1 scanner software.

I opened the file in PS 7 no usage of embedded colour manaagement of the photo, no colour management made after that in Photoshop, no level adjustments, only unsharpening - for both prints the same level.

I used the newest ICC profiles in PS 7 available for the Epson 1290 from the Epson site in the download section.

I saved my own "proof-settings" in PS 7 with this ICC Epson profile and paper, I did choose "perceptive" and checked also "Tiefenkompensierung verwenden" (I do not know the name in English for that - something with depth compression).

Then I selected print with preview. In that pop up window I selected "show further options" and in the drop-down menu below "colour management". There I did choose again the ICC Epson 1290 profile for the Premium Photo Glossy paper and depth compression.

I did press then print and in the new printer window I went into the preferences for the printer.

There I did choose the Premium Glossy paper, mode= manual (user settings). Again a new window.

I checked there quality: 1440dpi for the first print, 2880dpi for the second one.

No bidirectional printing to get the maximum quality (according to Epson), and I checked the box for "... borders" (last box).

On the upper right hand: no colour management. Then saving all settings. Paper size A4 and print.

The result of the two prints is that I can not see with my naked eye any differences on this size, except a very slight colour shift in the reds, which is unimportant. I doubt that I could see a difference on A3. I made a similar test on A3 long time ago, when I purchased the printer and based on that test, I concluded for myself that 2880 is not at all necessary.

If you found a way to achieve differences between 2880 and 1440, I would be happy to try your working flow. Better results are always welcome
happy.gif
 
Hi Dirk,
I did the test last night and looked at the results in todays light. There is a difference between the two in that @ 2880 the colours are more like the original shot. They are noticibly richer. I used a wedding shot of mine, which had two hands showing the rings and the brides flowers against her white dress. The skin tones came out more like they are in reallity (the couple are friends), and the flowers were very different. The overall definition is also a little sharper. Apart from the colour shift there is little difference. So if I can sort out the colour difference I will save a lot of ink and time by using 1440.

Many thanks

Paul
 
Back
Top