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User comments btil June 2003



As requested from one of our members I added this section for the Leica M2.
With the M2 I use a sekonic L-508. I already had. It has all the bangs and whistles you could ever want but at a cost, finacially and size. I'm currently training my eyes on sunny 16 and that works OK but would like a very small indicent meter with to go with the M2. The L508 I purchased for the set-up with the Hassy when the size doesn't really matter that much but for Leica shooting its overkill. I find incident metering to be the best for me.

My lens of choice is the 50mm and currently have a summicron with it. Next on the list is a Noctilux and possibly a 35mm. I find that I really like the Leica for enviromental type portraits but prefer the hassy for a typical headshot. Other favorite is the 75lux. I cannot see myself extend to more then those focal lengths.

The 90mm's are nice lenses but the Hasselblad /150mm/16mm tube and even the F100 with the 85mm/1.8 have a clear advantage in that area.


I really do enjoy the M2. The film spool and slow rewind don't botter me at all. Actually find the loading to be more secure then the M6 fast load mecanism. I never had a misload on the M6 but I never felt 100% comfortable. The M2 is, albeit slower. The VF hasn't flared on me yet, and I don't expect it to. The M6ttl drove me nuts. Other then that I can't say there is much difference between the camera's.
I bought an M2 privately, in Indonesia, not long ago. My M2 has a lever-type rewind (as opposed to button-type) and it has a self-timer. It dates from 1963, according to its serial number. It came with a Konica Hexanon 50mm f/2 lens that is in excellent condition. I'm looking forward to seeing how well this lens performs, because I've heard some very good things about it.

The M2 seems to be fine, mechanically, and everything fits and works the way it's supposed to. The VF is very clear and the RF patch is easy to see. Framelines snap into place as they should and are in good condition. I think the RF is accurate. Shutter speeds seems right, but the shutter is a bit noisier than with my M6TTLs. The manually reset exposure counter is a bit stiff to turn but I don't know if that's normal.

Cosmetically, my M2 is a bit ugly. The chrome plating on both the top plate and the bottom plate, around the tripod bush, is very scuffed. The paint around the rear door is also a bit chipped. However, the vulcanite is intact, for which I am grateful as it seems that's often not the case with old M3s and M2s.

Because I've only had it for a short time, I haven't had any results from it yet. However, I've bought a Selonic "Flashmaster" L-308B hand-held light meter for use with it. Hopefully, it won't be long before I get some results. I've got my fingers crossed!
I recently aquired a M2, 50 f/2 summicron(has slight mold swirls inside the glass), 90 f/2.8 elmarit(again some mold inside), 35 f/2 summicron(seems ok), 135 f/4 elmar(seems ok), plus some accesories. It has all been boxed in a closet since 1965. The M2 needs a CLA and the two lenses need cleaning. Its the first Leica gear ive owned and I havent used it yet. Is it worth having it repaired or should I use that money to put towards an M6ttl and current lenses?
Dear John,

It is worth having them repaired. I inherited my Father's 1:2/50 Summicron with the same problem. Sent it to Solms and it returned like new. Until the latest Elmarit-M, your 1:2,8/90 Elmarit was considered the sharpest 90mm lens in the Leica range, so I would add that to the shipment.

You might have a chat to Don Goldberg as an alternative to Leica Camera AG. If you decide to send them to the factory, go direct to Germany not through Leica Camera Inc.

As a matter of interest, what is the serial number of the 1:4/135mm (If you do not want to clog the Forum my email is jcdscott@bigpond.net.au)

To return to the start. Do not part with the M2, the 35 or the 50, they are three of Leica's all time greats.


I just hope you'll be able to clean off the mould in the lenses. Don't delay, because the mould will continue to spread. It can be very destructive, will destroy the lens coatings and can even etch the glass itself, because it secretes hydroflouric acid!

Since some of the lenses are afflicted with mould, the camera could be mouldy too. You can find out whether that's the case by removing the lens and sniffing at the lens mount opening. If it smells musty, then it's mouldy and should be cleaned.
John - take Ray's advice immediately. You have a great camera and lenses, but fungus is truly evil - the entire camera needs to be cleaned as spoors in the camera could "re-infect" your lenses even after you have them cleaned.
Fungus hates UV light and low humidity.

Good luck.

Just bought an M2. Should arrive in the next day or two. I was hoping someone here would know where I can find a rewind lever for it. Thanks in advance for any help.