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What do you use 35mm vs digital

Gerry,

Sorry to inform you that SiliconFilm has been around for three years with no product yet. Like yourself, and a whole lot of other folks anticipating this "great invention" it's a major disappointment. The company has been on Wired Magazine's VaporWare list for three years running...
"10. Silicon Film's Electronic Film System: For the third year in a row, Silicon Film Technologies makes the list for failing to deliver its long-promised "digital film" system, which turns film cameras into digital ones.
The company's website admits the technology still isn't available, but invites visitors to sign up for an e-mail notification when it is.
"I e-mailed them a year ago and it's still not available," wrote reader Nono Felipe. "They should change their site's statement to: 'Wanted: people who can actually make this product a reality.'"

Sorry for the bad news.
 
Jim,
I have been using a polaroid SS4000 for over a year now and these are the things that work best for me. First the software that runs the scanner is very important. I use Silverfast. It has a bit of a learning curve, but in the end it is far superior to the software that comes with most scanners. As far as film, most older B&W films scan with increased grain. I have had good luck with Delta 100 and to a lesser extent 400. In color films the Kodak Supra films scan well. I also use slide films and have liked most of the Fuji films and just finished scanning some stuff I shot at Yosemite over Christmas using Fuji Velvia 50 and the results were outstanding. I recently bought a Tri Elmar for my M6 and because of f4 being the fastest, I'm going to try the new Fuji NPH 400 print film and see how it scans.
One other thing about scanning B&W Negative film. If you scan it as a positive and adjust and invert it it eliminates some of the grain. There is a procedure that you follow to do it in Photoshop, but done right it provides a better image.
As for shooting color and converting to B&W, I've started to do more and more of it. I actually think your Sacnned image picks up more detail doing it that way. I don't have any solid proof of it, but I really like the way the final result looks. Again, using Photoshop and the Custom RGB to Grayscale Action or, in Adjustments, using the Channel Mixer in Monochrome, allows you to adjust the image before converting to B&W. I've done some really good stuff this way. Hope this info helps.
Randy
 
I got one of the first p&s digital cameras on the market, then kept upgrading (but staying with p&s). For me, digital kind of killed the fun of photography, because you could just fire and fire till you got what you wanted.

I'm an amateur..and a poor one at that. But I got a Contax G2 and the joy of composing a shot was back...I followed that up with a Contax N1, and then last weekend FINALLY went big league and bought a M6 TTL LHSA black paint body. Shopping for a lens at the moment.

My interest in photography is back..and going more and more "manual" than automatic makes it more enjoyable for me...

Jeff in Colorado
 
Hi, I am enjoying the scanner conversation. I have a Nikon LS-2000 film scanner and scanning B&W film has never worked well, as far as clean up during the process, using ICE to do it. For my weddings, I switched to color film because of this problem and give the client the option of color or black and white. However, now that I'm heading back to basics with the M6, I'm looking forward to using real B&W film. I've been actually "seeing" the huge difference that I've been blind to for a few years. For some applications flipping from color to B&W works, but it seems to not have the depth of real B&W. My sister, also a photographer, will think I've fallen off a cliff, hit my head and knocked some sense back into it, with that opinion because it's always been her opinion.

someone a few days ago gave a good idea of doing two scans, one with ICE and one without and then layer them in photoshop. I look forward to giving this a try. I was hoping that the generations of this scanner after mine would have taken care of this problem. We'll continue reading and maybe someone knows if Nikon has solved this B&W scanner problem.

Cathy in Atlanta
 
Thanks for being in the know.
happy.gif
 
> Hi:

I'm new here and am sending this as a test to see if I understood the instructions on how to reply to a message on this forum. Please overlook this text as it is just a text. Thanks. Ted
 
>Ted - ya did fine. How are you? You haven't run into my brother in law >lately have ya? I'm in the throws of deciding which

camera to take on my upcomming trip to Colorado to visit my Mom. Probably will be M6 with TriElmar with some HP5+ - but will drive my family nuts with last minute changes.

ernie nitka - Greg's b-in-law
 
Have a great time in Colorado for yourself and for me. I am in need of a Colorado fix.

Anyone have comments on the TriElmar? I'm still working out which lens will be my first. I tend toward wide shots with my Canons, but the ones I am considering in addition to the Tri, are the 28, 35, 50 and 90

Cathy in Atlanta
 
I saw the tri-elmar at a dealer recently. I really liked it. Not too big but they could not find the lens shade so I wonder how obtrusive it is. It would be a great travel lens for when you have enough light. Ideally I would take this lens and have my 35/2 and 50/2 for those times when I need that 2 extra stops.
 
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