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G2 general questions

Hi John,

> But when > would you need to have AE Lock separate from AF Lock? (Please give an > ex&le.)

If the subject you want in precise focus (or in the center of your depth of field focus) has a different exposure than you want.

> Wouldnt your subject be the point of focus all the time and > wouldnt you want your subject to be properly exposed? (eg. a human > face in the shade on a bright day).

Picture a child in a museum...they are standing behind a science exhibit that you want in focus, and you want them out of focus, but...you want the exposure to be correct for them.

I focus on one thing, and expose for another quite a lot of the time...

Regards,

Austin
 
Austin, good ex&le. Another ex&le is a backlighting situation when you can't get close to meter without errors from a strong backlight. Eg., someone is standing under a tree in fairly dark shade but a strong sunlight is coming through the tree behind them. In this case, I would meter with the camera pointed down enough to eliminate the sun through the trees, lock exposure, and then focus on my subject. Hope that helps. Scott
 
John, This is a situation I am coming across frequently particularly at this time of year when one is often shooting with a low sun. I will usually take an exposure from behind me and lock it with the AEL switch. When I turn round to compose and take my photo, how I want it composed may end up with a horizontal line or repeat pattern (e.g. brickwork) in the focus box of the G2. It will not therefore pick up a focus. I then move off centre to pick up a focusable (is that a proper word?) object at the correct distance, lock the focus with the shutter button, re-centre and shoot. I know it sounds involved but even after using a G2 for only four weeks or so, it has become a mentally patterned set of actions, which I do not really need to think about. Wilson
 
Having been a little sceptical over the need to use the focus lock button as a lock rather than as an exposure/focus check button, which I frequently do, yesterday I came across a set of circumstances where the focus lock on the shutter release just does not do the job. I was in Vichy taking pictures of the very fine "Fin de Siecle" buildings on a Monday when there is much less traffic. Many of the streets are quite narrow and one takes in the portrait position. Because the predominance of vertical features, the camera will not pick up a focus. You can of course rotate the camera to the normal position, pick up a focus by half pressing the shutter release and then rotate back to portrait. The problem is that ou almost always end up pressing the shutter release as you rotate the camera and taking the photo at 45 degrees. You do need the separate focus lock button in these circumstances. It does need a bit of manual dexterity to use I have to say. Wilson
 
Wilson, the separate focus lock button os on the rear of the camera and not just in the shutter release. Holding the camera in your right hand where your thumb rests is the focus command switch put the camera on manual and press the button inside the switch the camera then will autofocus and keep that setting as long as you keep your thumb on the button. This means that as soon as you press the shutter release the shutter fires instantly as it does not try to autofocus.
Try this setting and just do the same but use your thunb rather than your forefinger to focus then fire the shutter, makes a big difference.
Bob.
 
Bob, Many thanks for suggestion, that was what I had been trying to do but was finding the manoeuvre difficult. I am quite arthritic and my right thumb joints in particular just will not obey commands from CPU. I will try putting a lump of "Bluetak" on the focus lock button to see if that helps. Wilson
 
Can someone with a 28/2.8 check something with this lense out for me? Does the focus seem to "drag" at the close focusing distance? I check this by setting the focus to manual, and setting the focus to .5M and pressing the focus button on the back. On the 28, it sounds like it struggles at the end of the travel. I know it's not the camera, or the batteries, as this test shows no issue with the 45 or the 90.

Regards,

Austin
 
--->>Can someone with a 28/2.8 check something with this lens out for me? Does the focus seem to "drag" at the close focusing distance? I check this by setting the focus to manual, and setting the focus to .5M and pressing the focus button on the back. On the 28, it sounds like it struggles at the end of the travel. I know it's not the camera, or the batteries, as this test shows no issue with the 45 or the 90.

Greetings,

I've had exactly the same problem since day one, almost 2 years ago. I had a new body swapped and it did the same thing. I've checked a couple of friends cameras and they don't seem to have the problem. Might be able to tell you more soon being as we are picking up 6 new bodies in Detroit on Monday from the big sale. We must be nuts or something.

I was going to suggest we start a G2 club after. We could call it the "G Spot". :)

Paul
 
Hi Paul,

Thanks for the info. I take it that you believe it's a body problem, not a lense problem, as the same 28 didn't show this problem on another body?

> Might be able to tell you more soon being as we are picking up 6 new > bodies in Detroit on Monday from the big sale.

Er, what big sale in Detroit?

Regards,

Austin
 
There are no focusing Problems with the G1&G2. Make shure you got a new battery and clean the contacts on the lens and camera.
Assuming you read the using guide and handle the camera like its disingned for.
Its a great camera i love it.
 
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