M
mas
>Buy one for the least amount of money; that'll probably be used. The most common adjustment needed is the rangefinder; take that into account.Good luck. > Michael
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Are they worth going for?? Or should I keep saving?
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Any Leica in good working order is better than no Leica.
1. Over time you will learn that the cost of film and processing is a far greater investment than the hardware.
2. If discretionary funds are a problem, buy a sevicable camera and a lens or two and learn how to use them to their best advantage. Then if you feel like improving anything, you will have your own experience to guide you. I know why I like something, but it may not be as important to you.
===================================================
Any Leica in good working order is better than no Leica.
1. Over time you will learn that the cost of film and processing is a far greater investment than the hardware.
2. If discretionary funds are a problem, buy a sevicable camera and a lens or two and learn how to use them to their best advantage. Then if you feel like improving anything, you will have your own experience to guide you. I know why I like something, but it may not be as important to you.
C
Craig24
Excellent advice from Mr P. Phreak
Getting into Leica does not have to be a bank balance breaking ordeal. Unless you are totally absolutely stuck on the idea of TTL metering, consider also a good user M3 or one of the M4s. The clip-on Leica MR (late version converted with V reg. for non Hg battery) or the new Voigtlander VC that slips into the hot shoe are very good units. The VF of the M2, M4, M5, M4-2 are perfect for use with 35mm and 50mm lenses. The 35mm lenses with eyes for the M3 are also much under rated user lenes, and not that expensive. If you prefer 28mm frame lines then an M4P would be much cheaper option than an M6. While the M6 is by far a better option than other brands of CRF cameras now on the market, they are by no means the best M Leica ever built.
Warning, if you do go for an M3 or M2 you will never go back, these cameras one tends to keep for life. The only consideration you may need to look into when going for an older M is the additional cost of servicing (CLA). Remember too that Leica Ms tend to keep their resale value so if you do make an initial choice that does suit you, the fiscal pain is not so great as with other types of cameras.
Just some mud to wade through and options you may wish to consider.
Regards and good hunting craig
Getting into Leica does not have to be a bank balance breaking ordeal. Unless you are totally absolutely stuck on the idea of TTL metering, consider also a good user M3 or one of the M4s. The clip-on Leica MR (late version converted with V reg. for non Hg battery) or the new Voigtlander VC that slips into the hot shoe are very good units. The VF of the M2, M4, M5, M4-2 are perfect for use with 35mm and 50mm lenses. The 35mm lenses with eyes for the M3 are also much under rated user lenes, and not that expensive. If you prefer 28mm frame lines then an M4P would be much cheaper option than an M6. While the M6 is by far a better option than other brands of CRF cameras now on the market, they are by no means the best M Leica ever built.
Warning, if you do go for an M3 or M2 you will never go back, these cameras one tends to keep for life. The only consideration you may need to look into when going for an older M is the additional cost of servicing (CLA). Remember too that Leica Ms tend to keep their resale value so if you do make an initial choice that does suit you, the fiscal pain is not so great as with other types of cameras.
Just some mud to wade through and options you may wish to consider.
Regards and good hunting craig
Bad financial advice from Craig.... User M3's cost more than a M6. The cheapest M camera is a M4-2 $750 or so) then comes the M6 ($900) then you get into a contest for the M3 ( 600 (a wreck requiring at least a CLA for $400)-1500) M4 ( start at $1000) and M2 ( 800-1100). But you must keep in mind the wear and tear on the 40+ year old M3, the amount of VF disintegration on a M2 or M3 ( Fixing a VF on a m2 is in the $350-500 range, on a M3 it is $600+) and also the need for a CLA on any old body. A NEW M6TTL import is running $1200 to 1300. It is THE bargain. The only other choice is the Leica CL to get you started. Sherry Krauter sells them with a CLA already done. A nice body to get you into Leica glass, but you will want more in a few years. Buy the CL and want more, get the M6 and get used to the prices, or forget using a Leica. The problems with an old M2 M3 or M4 will break your heart. An M4-2 or M4-P is the only other choice.
L
Larem
A M6 Classic could be a good choice. Couldn't it? THanks. Remi.
M
matt
Thanks for the input - thinking of heading for a £600-750 used M6 classic. I won't really be using flash anyhow.
L
Larem
Hi,
I have bought last year a perfect mint M6 Classic at B&H in New york City: www.bhphotovideo.com They are very professionnal and serious and they can sent anywhere. Check the price list in used stuff. Or you can check in Adorama too: www.adorama.com
I have bought last year a perfect mint M6 Classic at B&H in New york City: www.bhphotovideo.com They are very professionnal and serious and they can sent anywhere. Check the price list in used stuff. Or you can check in Adorama too: www.adorama.com
You may want to ask on the Leica forum at photo.net (http://www.photo.net/bboard/forum?topic_id=1548) in case anyone has an M6 they are looking to sell. It's a pretty good community of people and may be safer than ebay.